Chili Time

The Time of My Life

My next review took me to the center of Cincinnati, to the humble neighborhood of St. Bernard. Another stalwart in the chili scene that I have been itching to try for many years, Chili Time has been a centerpiece of the St. Bernard community for over 50 years. Lauren and I struck a spot of luck because as we pulled up we were bombarded with signs pointing out that it was $1 coney day for Chili Time! Merely a coincidence, but a very satisfying one at that.

Walking from my car up to the restaurant, I was immediately struck by two thoughts. First, the sign (check the “parlor views” page). It is a thing of beauty, and it just made me smile walking up to the building. Which leads me to the second point, the building. I had seen photos of it before, and it did not match up. The reason being, its signature orange awning was missing! Unfortunately, this led to the remainder of the building being quite drab and nondescript. No matter, I was here for chili, so I moved on.

I had heard for years that Chili Time was open nearly constantly (closing at 4AM and opening at 7AM), but I was sad to note updated hours on the door, cutting back to more traditional restaurant hours. Of course, this is not a negative for chili time, but more a missed opportunity for a unique tradition. Either way, I was excited to try the chili, so we continued inside.

Alongside Lauren, I entered the building, and it was clear that this parlor is truly a “greasy-spoon” type restaurant. More reminiscent of a waffle house than anything else, there was a certain grimy feel to the place, yet it managed to maintain some semblance of a parlor charm. Being waited on is a plus for me, and our waitress – in classic diner garb – was exactly what I hope for in a chili parlor.

Like so many of the great chili parlors in Cincinnati, Chili Time has an expansive menu, including breakfast and double deckers alongside the namesake chili. To be honest, I think this is something that the powerhouse chains (you know what they are) lack. It provides a homey and old-timey feel to have a classic diner menu complimenting the chili favorites. Anyway, I digress, I proceeded to order some chili – listed at very reasonable prices I might add – and settled in for my meal.

The Food

I first have to note that the wait for our food after ordering was quite long for a chili parlor – not a deal breaker certainly, but a bit strange. As our food was delivered, I was extremely pleased upon examination of the plating of the chili. It was quite pleasant, showcasing the food appropriately, while also leaving room to dig in. Again, our chili was served with packaged oyster crackers – an unfortunate reality for small time parlors. Chili Time’s variety were small and crispy, more reminiscent of soup / chowder crackers than chili crackers; I was not impressed. In addition, my only option for a hot sauce was Frank’s or Tabasco. Determined not to let this ruin my mood, I grabbed the Frank’s and started eating.

I started with the 4-Way, onion (I was not in the mood for beans when I ordered). I first noticed the spaghetti; it was a tad bit thicker than I was used to, but cooked nicely to al dente. The chili was quite greasy and had a nice consistency – not too soupy, not too dry – and it had a very pleasant spice level to it. I do have to say that the cheese was not fantastic, tasting pleasantly sharp, but not quite as fresh as some chili counterparts. All in all, it was quite a nice Way.

My chili cheese sandwich was unfortunately not as fantastic. The bun was a bit tough, perhaps bordering on stale, and there was an almost overwhelming amount of mustard. The taste of the chili managed to shine through however, and I still found myself wishing I ordered another. I also need to note that Lauren ordered the chili cheese fries, so I stole a bite and they were fantastic! Certainly the best iteration of the dish I have had to date, I will be going back for the chili cheese fries.

Review

Chili Time has a great history. With a cute sign and great chili, it manages to rise above its limiting factors to provide a fantastic product and a pleasant experience. I will certainly be going back, and recommend you try it as well. With that said, my review is below.

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Final Rating: 3.5 Oyster Crackers out of 5

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